Paris restaurant

Parisian restaurant with three Michelin stars skewered by critic who finds piece of PLASTIC in food

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A three-star Michelin restaurant in Paris, which charges £430 for its tasting menu – excluding drinks – has come under fire after it served a top French food critic a dish containing a piece of plastic.

Considered one of the best restaurants in the world, L’Arpège is run by “legendary” chef Alain Passard, who is said to personally inspect every meal before it comes out.

Passard, 66, is known for being at the forefront of ‘farm-to-table’ cuisine and featured in the Netflix series Chef’s Table after his 36-year-old restaurant gave up meat and went focused on defending vegetables.

L’Arpège, a three-star Michelin restaurant in Paris, which charges £430 for a tasting menu – excluding drinks – has been criticized

Chef Alain Passard, 66, is known for being at the forefront of ‘farm-to-table’ cuisine

But last week, a customer – who was actually a food critic for the French newspaper Le Figaro – was served his zucchini flower with a “two centimeter” piece of flexible plastic.

In his scathing review, Stéphane Durand-Souffland wrote that the error was only part of the meal that left him and his diners feeling like they had been “taken for a ride”.

He describes some of the expensive tasting menu dishes, which have become a tourist attraction in their own right, as “mundane” and said the whole experience left him “baffled”.

In his scathing review, Stéphane Durand-Souffland wrote that the mistake was just part of the meal that made him and his diners feel like they had been “taken for a ride”.

Zucchini sushi.  Restaurant tasting menus are priced at €490

'Florist's Sushi'.  Restaurant tasting menus are priced at €490

The restaurant’s tasting menus are priced at €490 and feature dishes including sushi

“Passard was passive, without energy, as if following a soulless routine. In this category, at this price, it is unforgivable.

To make up for the plastic hidden in the courgette flower, the waiter brought Durand-Souffland one of Passard’s signature dishes, a fusion of lamb and pigeon priced at £189.

The reviewer said of the dish, which was inspired by the work of Thomas Grünfeld, a German sculptor known for his “Misfits” series of imaginary hybrid animals: “Sorry, but I didn’t like that Frankenstein feat.”

L'Arpège has held its Michelin status for a quarter of a century and is currently ranked number 31 in the World's 50 Best Restaurants

L’Arpège has held its Michelin status for a quarter of a century and is currently ranked number 31 in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants

In 2016, Passard was featured in Netflix's Chef's Table, in which he conceded

In 2016, Passard was featured in Netflix’s Chef’s Table, in which he conceded “A three-star restaurant is very demanding, everything has to be perfect”.

He concluded his review by writing, “Three stars? Really?’

“There’s nothing worse than a dinner party that makes you sad.”

The critic only got a £60 cut, according to the Sunday Times.

L’Arpège was founded in 1986, has held its Michelin status for a quarter of a century and is currently ranked number 31 in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants.

Passard shocked the culinary world in 2001 when he announced he would stop cooking meat, despite his restaurant being known for its roasts.

The reviewer concluded his review of the restaurant:

The reviewer concluded his review of the restaurant: “There’s nothing worse than a dinner party that makes you sad”

Fish and meat dishes are now back on the menu, but vegetables are still at the center of the restaurant's menu and philosophy.

Fish and meat dishes are now back on the menu, but vegetables are still central to the restaurant’s menu and philosophy.

Dishes on his lunch menu cost between €54 and €220, while his

Dishes on his lunch menu cost between €54 and €220, while his “Gardeners’ Lunch” costs €185.

Passard shocked the culinary world in 2001 when he announced he would stop cooking meat, despite his restaurant being known for its roasts.

Passard shocked the culinary world in 2001 when he announced he would stop cooking meat, despite his restaurant being known for its roasts.

He instead decided to focus on produce from the biodynamic farms he had set up all over France and he quickly became known as the “King of Turnips” because of his personal care for the plants.

Fish and meat dishes are now back on the menu, but vegetables are still central to the restaurant’s menu and philosophy.

In 2016, he was featured in Netflix’s Chef’s Table, in which he conceded “A three-star restaurant is very demanding, everything has to be perfect”.

Before Passard announced he would stop cooking meat in his restaurant, he was well known as a rotisserie

Before Passard announced he would stop cooking meat in his restaurant, he was well known as a rotisserie

Considered one of the best restaurants in the world, L'Arpège is an original idea of ​​the chef

Considered one of the best restaurants in the world, L’Arpège is the brainchild of “legendary” chef Alain Passard, who reportedly personally checks every meal before it comes out.

His restaurant’s tasting menus are priced at €490 and feature dishes including sushi and ‘golden onion lace with Parmigiano Reggiano’.

Meanwhile, the dishes on its lunch menu cost between €54 and €220, while its “Gardeners Lunch” costs €185.

L’Arpège has been contacted for comments.

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