Franco-Cambodian chef Tomy Gousset won over a clientele eager for demanding regulars when he was chef at Pirouette, a contemporary French bistro in Les Halles. Today Gousset, who previously cooked with Alain Solivérès in Taillevent, Yannick Alléno when he was at Meurice and with Daniel Boulud in New York, moved and hung his own shingle in a quiet side street in a residential corner of the silk- occupying the 7th arrondissement which seems improbably on its way to becoming one of the most fashionable new gastronomic arteries in Paris.
Why? The David Toutain restaurant, the eponymous table of one of the best young chefs in Paris, is also located here, which means that rue Surcouf is suddenly gaining a street gastronomic reputation at the height of the best addresses in eastern Paris. like rue Paul. Bert.
A deep love of fresh, organic, seasonal vegetables is one of Gousset’s gastronomic signatures, and those served in his restaurant come from his own organic garden at Chateau de Courances outside of Paris.
Otherwise, our excellent recent dinner started with gnocchi with truffles and aged Comté, and continued with roasted guinea fowl with foie gras, broccoli and corn puree, a dish with a certain suave rusticity, and sea bream. with baby potatoes and eggplant puree. The dessert not to be missed is Gousset’s sublime Gallic riff on Ossau-Iraty-based cheesecake and topped with black cherry jam. The lively atmosphere, the simple decor and the relaxed service typical of the districts of the big cities like Shoreditch in London or Nolita in New York surprise in the gray flannel districts BCBG (good chic, good kind) of the rather reserved 7th arrondissement, and c is a welcome change of pace.
Tomy & Cie, 22 Rue Surcouf, 7th arrondissement, Paris. Phone. (33) 01 45 51 46 93. Average 50 €. Website: www.facebook.com/tomysurcouf
From France Today magazine